If electrolysis is performed perfectly on anagen hairs, in theory there should be no regrowth. Due to a number of factors, this is often not the case. Even with the best operators, there is an estimated regrowth of between 25% and 50%. Results can vary with the equipment used and the hair type, for example, curved follicles and galvanic epilation. Anagen hairs may be growing in the hair follicle but not visible on the skin surface and so untreated in this appointment.
Mistakes can also be made when original vellus hairs are included in the regrowth assessment.
Regeneration of a plucked hair varies with the body area but a general rule is two to four months after plucking or waxing.
Reasons for apparent regrowth include the following:
• Most of the hair follicles are not fully developed and do not produce hair. Under the influence of hormones, some of the follicles become activated and produce new hairs. The dermal papilla must be destroyed to prevent regrowth. All follicles will be destroyed if the current is turned to maximum for a long time. However, this would cause severe problems like scaring and crusting.
Instead, aim for a balance. It is better to be cautious even though this may result in regrowth.
Hairs can always be epilated again and it is not so easy to remove an electrolysis scar.
• Failure to observe fine or intermediate hair in the working area. Once coarse hairs have been removed, the finer hairs immediately become more noticeable.
• Late telogen and early anagen hairs may be just below the surface. The client must be warned they may appear as regrowth.
• The appearance of hairs after depilatory creaming only takes a few days and can appear to be regrowth.
• The hormonal level in the body may alter slightly and previously fine hairs are stimulated to become more terminal hairs. This can be mistaken for regrowth.
• Sometimes people become aware of hairs that have always been there and think this is regrowth. This occurs because they start to inspect themselves more closely and become more aware. Explain clearly to the client about the difference between regrowth and apparent regrowth.